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702 Presron Avenue, Bryn Mawr, Pa. 19010  |  (610) 527-1251  |  Mon - Fri 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM
GENERAL RULES for RC Drag Racing

HAVE FUN!

I want to go over a few track rules that we are going to have in place for 2013. 
1. No smoking. You might be warned the first time, you might be asked to leave the first time. It's not worth losing our track over this matter. We spent a couple months looking for a track to let us to race. It's not only our rule, but the rules on school property.

2. There will be no pitting, or spectating past half track. With some of the cars getting over 80 mph we don't want anything to happen down there.

3. A catch person must be at the end of the track to get your car. Please do not turn the car back around or turn the car towards your catch person, keep the car straight if at all possible. (easier said than done sometimes!) The last thing we want is the car to glitch and come back up the track or speeding towards the catch person. We are asking that the catch person stand up on the curb to the right side of the track until the cars have come to a stop. If you came by yourself, ask a fellow racer or somebody to help you out. They should be willing to do that. 

4. Please run side by side in practice and qualifying if possible. We have more and more racers showing up all the time which is great, but single runs only makes qualifying that much longer. I know we all want to get out of there at a decent time. 
Nitro powered drag cars are MORE than welcome to compete in Bracket, Comp, Funny Car, and extreme. All Nitro cars must line up to the left side of the groove to keep the starting line as clean as possible. 

 All cars must be wheel driven! No rockets or anything like that. 
All cars MUST have foam tires on the drive wheels. Anything but foam tires will not work on the treated race track. 

Safety pull cords!-- All cars in Funny Car, Top Sportsman, or cars with more than 6 cells and run a cobalt or Neo magnet motors must have a safety pull cord!! NO EXCEPTION!!!
ALL Lipos must be a hard cased lipo, and MUST use a lipo bag when charging. 

 Entree fees will stay the same as they were in 2013.

Single Car- $12.00
Multiple Cars- $26.00 each 
Family Plan - $90.00 (includes 3 family members, multiple cars. 3 cars per person)



RULES

I will start with raceway procedures. 

Practice will be half an hour, maybe a bit more depending on how fast the track gets set up. 
We have cut all classes but Bracket and Pro Comp to 2 qualifying sessions. Bracket and Pro Comp will remain at 3 sessions. The main reason is to save time with an addition of 2 new classes. 

We also have cut the B-Sides for Funny Car and Top Sportsman.

All classes that allow lipo- MUST be hard case ONLY and also MUST charge in a charging bag. There will be random checks for voltage as well as temperature. 
Consider anything not written in the rules not legal, and anything in-between will be decided by me.

Rules-

Bracket-
Any RC vehicle pretty much. Come race, have fun. 500 tree with a dial in.


Pro Comp-

Any drag specific drag vehicle allowed. Any battery and motor. .400 tree.
We have changed the index from 2.75 to 2.50. The cars will now have a 2.50 index. We took a vote and everybody decided this was a good idea. 

Pro Stock-

This will be a new class for 2009, and looks to be very fun. 
11" max. Wheelbase, Pro Stock type bodies, 1985 or newer. MUST have pro stock style hood scoop, no blowers, and also a pro stock style wing. 
Motor- Any ROAR approved 27 turn stock motor, or 17.5 Brushes 

SLOT CAR GENERAL RULES
January 11 2013

Carriera Digital and Non Carriera  

 Running Voltage: 12V DC
-Running Track: Carriera Digital and Carriera Drag tracks seperated.

-Fuel Management: No.
-Cars Allowed: Any Carriera .
-Chassis: No modifications Allowed. Any Carriera pod allowed. Spacers on body posts allowed.
-Body: Custom Paint Allowed, must have interior.
-Gears: Modifications Allowed, Carriera parts only.
-Bushings: No Modifications Allowed.
-Wheels/Axle: Modifications Allowed, Carriera or store wheels. 

-Tires: 1/32 tires only. No Tire Treatments Allowed. May be Sanded. 
-Electrical: Motor Noise Filter Not Required.
-Magnet: No Magnet.
-Motor: Orange endbell motor only, 21.5RPM. Motor must have undamaged metal tabs. Cutting the shafts are allowed. No chemical additives to the motor (ex: voodoo drops) or other motor modifications allowed.

-Weight: Weight Allowed, interior only.
-Vehicle Ground Clearance: .040" miniumum.
-Guide Blade: Modifications Allowed, Carriera parts only. May use any 1/32 manufactures braid. No chemical additives to the braids (ex: voodoo drops). 
If it does not indicate above that it's allowed.
-House rules apply.

SLOT CAR GENERAL RULES
2012 Schedule for RC DRAG RACING

Test and Tune- April 

Here is the 2013 schedule as of 1/30/2013
It may change before the season begins. 

April 17th Test N Tune

May 1rd Points Race 1

May 22th Points Race 2

June 19th Points Race 3

June 26th Points Race 4

July 17th Points Race 5

July 24th TBA- Non Points Event

August 21th Points Race 6

August 28rd Points Race 7

September 18th Points Race 8

September 25th Points Race 9

October 9th Finals/Showdown


Please visit our Online Store
Slot Car & RC Racing at it's Best!
Allen & Allen Motor Speedway Racing, LLC.
Phone 610-520-7247 or 610-527-1251
Equipment:

First off let's start with what you should bring to the track. If you're running Electric you'll need all your charging gear, chargers, power supply, batteries etc. There is power at RCCAR and at all the permanent tracks although most of the temporary parking lot tracks don't have power, so check ahead of time. Nitro races, you'll want to bring your fuel, fuel bottle, and receiver battery charger or spare batteries. And for both you'll want a chair, folding table to work on, and I recommend some sort of canopy for some shade for both you and your pit table. The pits at RCCAR are a first come-first serve basis. Just setup where you like, and if you get there real early, make sure you leave room for timing and scoring, and the track of course!

Some other notes on equipment, if you are running electric, you need to have at least two battery packs, and I would recommend having three good battery packs for your qualifiers and main event, plus some practice packs. 2000's don't really like to be charged more than once-a-day, although 3000's can be charged as often as three times if you cool them down before re-charging them.
If your are running Nitro, it's a good idea to have a buddy to help you out in the pits, this way you have someone to fill up your car before the qualifier, have someone to start you off in the main event, and if you have a flame-out, you can get some help getting it started again.

Your Car:

For RCCAR, the rules are pretty simple, and as long as you follow these guidelines you should be fine.

Width: 190mm max for Electric, 200mm max for Nitro. These are the 'standard' widths so for both cars, so you should be fine. And only HPI and Kyosho make it easy to switch between the two widths.

Wings: The rear wing should the one that which was included with the body, and should not extend above the roof of the car.

Body: The body must be painted, and although sedan bodies are encouraged, any body may be used.

Tires/Wheels: Tires must be rubber (no foam tires). Altho any rubber tire is legal, I'd recommend picking up a set of Yokomo Firm Sprints (ZR-206F) with Yokomo Firm Foam Inserts (ZR-034F) on a 24mm rim. (1/8th scale .15 Expert Gas and F1 foam tires are legal).


Electric Motors: Basically you have two classes of motors, Stock and Modified. A Stock motor is a 27turn, 24 deg motor. (Pink Can, 36 deg stock motors are not legal) A modified motor is everything else, aka 13turn, 10 turn motors. 

I would recommend if this were your first race, that you should run Sportsman Stock, and get your feet wet there. Once you've got that down, then move up to either Sportsman Mod, or to Expert Stock.

Nitro Motors: In Sedan, you may run pretty much any .10 through .15 Nitro Motor. 





Radio Gear:
This is a very important thing to remember. Make sure you have more than once Frequency Channel for your Radio and Car. When you sign-up at the track, give them your primary channel and any backups you might have. This helps to make sure there are no conflicts between drivers in your heat or main.






Race Day:

Plan on being at the track by 8:00 am at the latest if you want to take full advantage of open practice. 7:00 am if you want to help us setup the track. Get some practice packs Charged! When the track opens for practice, and you're ready to go out and practice, go to the back of the driver's stand, and look for your frequency on the board. If it's not there, DON'T TURN ON YOUR RADIO until it is! You should NEVER turn on your radio in the pits at any time, and during practice only when you have the clip, and never during a qualifier or main if you are not running in that heat. There may be someone else running the same frequency as you.




OK, now we've got a frequency clip, and you're ready to go practice. Wait, what was that word again? PRACTICE. This is not a race. You are out there to learn the track layout, and make sure your car works ok and has the proper setup. If a faster car comes up on you, let him by, this isn't a race. In fact the BEST thing you can do is to find someone to follow around the track so you can work on the proper lines and braking points. Remember that the fast way around the track is not to hit anything when you're just getting started.


If your car is working good, run out that battery and then bring it in (return your frequency clip) and return to the pits and change batteries and go out again. If you car is not working correct, aka spinning out, or pushing too much, bring it in and make some changes. Don't bother running your battery out if the car isn't working. Go make some changes. If you're not sure what to do, ask someone who has the same car you have, or check out RC Racing.com's Article on Basic Car Setup by August MacBeth.

Now with practice over, and the heats posted, it's time to go find out when you'll be up for your first qualifying heat. Get your batteries charged (if running Electric) and plan on going up to timing and scoring the race before yours and pick up your transponder. The transponder should match your car number listed on the Heat Sheet. (You'll need to drill a hole in your windshield for your transponder if you don't have a dedicated transponder mount. The transponder must be between the front and rear wheels and be mounted horizontally. The safest place is in the windshield.) 





Once the heat that is currently running, is finished and have all turned off their cars, you may turn your car on and put it on the track and take your place on the drivers stand. Take a single lap to get warmed up and then stage your self behind the start/finish bridge (make sure you stop in a safe spot if others are still warming up). Next wait for your Car number or name to be called and run your qualifier. 


Each person starts his or her own clock, so you don't need to 'race' with anyone at this point. Just try to get the best qualifier in that you can. If someone faster comes up behind you, let him by, if your tangle with him, it will only hurt both of your qualifiers. Remember to keep it between the boards, and you'll have a good qualifier! When the buzzer sounds, continue racing until your name or car number is called. Because everyone started on their own clock, some people may finish before others, so when your name or number is called, make sure you pull your car off in a safe area ASAP so you don't interfere with someone else who may still be on the clock. OK, you're pumped; you've got your first qualifier in! But wait! You're not done! Return your transponder to timing and scoring and the go out and turn marshal for the next race! Very important, you'll get docked a lap off your best qualifier if you don't turn marshal. When you turn marshal, remember that other cars on the track have the right away, but try and get to anyone who is stuck as quick as possible and safe.

All right, now get ready for the second round of qualifying. This will start right after the last race of round one.

Once qualifying is over, the race officials will print out the mains. The mains are based on your qualifying. The top ten qualifiers in each class will make up the 'A' Main, the next ten will be in the 'B' Main, and on down the line. So find out where you will be starting, and note your NEW race number and possible NEW CAR NUMBER. Your car number is NOT your starting position, so make sure you check the sheet carefully. Make sure you grab the correct transponder for the mains, as it may be different than what you had been using.




Now the starts for the mains will be different than they were during qualifying. This time you will line up in Qualifying order, and everyone will go at the sound of the tone, and NOW we're racing! 


This is a race, but if you happen to hit someone and spin them out, do the right thing and wait for them to get going again before you take off. It's the sportsman like thing to do. Hopefully you'll be the first to the finish line after the tone sounds again and you'll be the winner of your heat! In some cases during Nitro races there may be 'bump-ups' for the winner. What this means if you win your 'C' or 'B' main, you can move up and run in the next race, starting in the 10th spot. This is not done in electric since it takes too long to change batteries, and is too much heat for an electric motor to handle all at once.




Right, you're day is over! Please lend a hand in putting the track away, and pick up and trash around your pit, if you decide to hang out, there is always a group of guys that go get some Pizza after the even, everyone is welcome!


Remember if you have any questions at a race, please don't hesitate to ask a race official, they'll be happy to help!
10th Scale Novice Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 chassis.
Body: Any body! Must have one on chassis.
Motor: Any - Must have one.
Tires: Any tires.
Batteries: 2 cell LIPO pack, 7.4V or 6 cell NIMH 7.2V.
Drive Train: Any 2 or 4 wheel drive.

1/8th Scale Nitro Late Model Class:

Chassis: Any 1/8 Buggy Chassis.
Body: Any 1/8 scale Late Model body that covers all 4 wheels. No wings or side dams.
Motor: Nitro Only! .21 or .28
Tires: Only 1/8 Buggy Tires.
Drive Train: Only 4 wheel drive.
Fuel Tank: 1 Tank - comes with car from manufacturer. No modifications. Max size is 125cc.

1/8th Scale Nitro Sprint Car/EDM Class:

Chassis: Any 1/8 Buggy Chassis.
Body: Any 1/8 scale Sprint body with top and front wings or EDM body.
Motor: Nitro Only! .21 or .28.
Tires: Only 1/8 Buggy tires - No Monster tires.
Drive Train: 4 wheel drive only
Fuel Tank: 1 Tank - comes with car from manufacturer. No modifications. Max size is 125cc.

1/8th Scale Brushless Class:

Chassis: Any 1/8th scale 4 Wheel drive Buggy Chassis.
Body: Any 1/8 scale Buggy body or EDM body.
Motor: Any 1/8 scale brushless motor.
Tires: Only 1/8 Buggy tires - No Monster tires
Drive Train: 4 Wheel drive only.
Batteries: Up to 4 Cell Lipo batteries.

1/10th Scale Sprint Car Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 Sprint car frame with roll cage and down tubes.
Body: Any 1/10 Scale Sprint Body with Top & Front wings
Motor: Any 10.5 brushless or turned motor.
Tires: Only 1/10 Buggy Tires – No Monster Tires
Batteries: 2 cell Lipo pack. 7.4V or 6 cell NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: 2 wheel drive with gearbox transmission. No solid axles!

1/10th Scale 4 Wheel Drive Late Model Unlimited Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 4 wheel drive Buggy chassis.
Body: Any late model body that covers the wheels. Side dams permitted this class only!
Motor: Any brushed or brushless motor.
Tires: Only 1/10 Buggy Tires – No Monster Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4V or cell or 6 cell NIMH 7.2V
Drive Train: 4 Wheel drive with gearbox transmission. No solid axles! 


Limited Late Model Class:

Chassis: Must be a short course truck Traxxas Slash, HPI Blitz, Losi Strike, Associated SC10, etc.
Body – 1/8 Scales Late Model Bodies Only!!! Wheels MUST be under the body. No Wings or Side Dams. 1"Spoiler maybe added.
Motors: Titian 12 Turn or 13.5 Brushless
Tires/Wheels: Short Course or 1/8 Scale Buggy Tires/Wheels
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo Pack, 7.4V or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2V
Intent: Cars must meet the intent of the rules. If it doesn't look like a late mode, it doesn't run. If it doesn't fit the rules, find a different class to run.

1/10 Scale Sprint Car Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 Sprint Car Frame with Roll Cage & Down Tubes
Body: Any 10 Scale Sprint Body with Top & Front wings
Motor: Any 10.5 Brushless or 19 Turned Motor
Tires: Only 1/10 Buggy Tires – No Monster Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo Pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: 2 Wheel Drive with Gearbox Transmission. No solid Axles!!

1/10 4 Wheel Drive Late Models Unlimited Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 4 Wheel Drive Buggy Chassis
Body: Any Late Model Body That Covers the Wheels
Side Dames Permitted this Class Only!!
Motor: Any Brushed or Brushless Motor
Tires: Only 1/10 Buggy Tires – No Monster Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: 4 Wheel Drive with Gearbox Transmission. No solid Axles!!

1/10 Classic/Vintage Class

Chassis: Any 1/10 Scale Truck or Buggy Chassis – 2 Wheel Drive Only
Body: Any 1/10 Scale Coupe or Sedan – Pre-1980 Body
No Side Dames or Wings Permitted.
Motor: Traxxas Titian 12T Motor - Only
Tires: Any 1/10 Scale Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: 2 Wheel Rear Drive Only – Car must have all 4 shocks & Gearbox Transmission. No Live Axles!!

1/10 Scale Short Course Truck

Chassis: Any Short Course Chassis
Body: Any 1/10 Scale Short Course Body
No Side Dames or Wings Permitted.
Motor: Traxxas Titian 12T Motor - Only
Tires: Stock Kit Tires Only – No After Market Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: Stock 2 Wheel Drive With Gearbox Transmission.
Radio: Any Radio, Speed Controller Maybe Changed to Traxxas Speedo Only






1/10 Scale Pro 4X4/ 2 Wheel Drive Mod Short Course Truck:

Chassis: Any 1/10 Short Course Chassis
Body: Any 1/10 Scale Short Course Body
Motor: Any 1/10 Scale
Tires: Any Short Course Truck Tire 2.2X3
Wheels: 2.2X3 Rims Only
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: Any 2 Wheel Drive or 4 Wheel Drive






1/10 Crazy A***** Brushless Class

Chassis: Any 1/10 Chassis
Motor: Any Brushless Motor
Body: Any Body!!! Must have one on Chassis.
Tires: Any Tires
Batteries: Any Size Batteries
Drive Train: Any 2 Wheel Drive or 4 Wheel Drive

1/10 Novice Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 Chassis
Motor: Any – must have one
Body: Any Body!!! Must have one on Chassis.
Tires: Any Tires
Batteries: 2 Cell Lipo pack, 7.4 or 6 Cells NIMH 7.2
Drive Train: Any 2 Wheel Drive

1/10 Truggy Class:

Chassis: Any 1/10 Chassis
Motor: Gas or Electric
Body: Any Body!!! Must have one on Chassis.
Tires: Any Tires
Batteries: Any or Nitro Fuel
Drive Train: Any 2 Wheel Drive or 4 Wheel Ride
CARPET, STREET OR DIRT RC RACING
For more information, please visit http://www.vrcworld.com